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Available November 2009
6 x 8, 240 pages.
24 b/w, 30 color photos
978-0-89672-665-9
$29.95 paper
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From fashion to field, its
twentieth-century story
The Sunbonnet
An American Icon in Texas
Rebecca Jumper Matheson
How has something so
ubiquitous been ignored for so long? Indeed, Matheson explains that to us,
along with taking the garment apart, reassembling it, and even giving advice
for reviving it. Her thorough treatment is a pleasure to read and fills in
another missing piece in the puzzle that remains women's collective past.--Laurie
Winn Carlson, author of
Seduced by the West
Pervasive and fashionable throughout westward
expansion in the United States, the sunbonnet endures as work dress in some
regions and as icon just about everywhere--on quilts, dolls, and children's
clothing. In 2003, Rebecca Matheson began to ask why.
Unlike the scant previously published work, this first
book-length study focuses on the twentieth century and why this particular
working-dress accessory persisted long after it passed out of
nineteenth-century fashion. Surveying its previous history, Matheson pursues
what the sunbonnet reveals about twentieth-century American fashion,
culture, and ideals, as well as class- and race-related issues. Detailing
materials and methods of sunbonnet construction and care, she also addresses
differences in sunbonnet design.
Enlivening the study's fresh approach are oral
histories and arresting primary source images, such as photographs by
Dorothea Lange and sunbonnets from American collections private and public,
including the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Texas
Fashion Collection, and the Museum of Texas Tech University. Literary
contextÑfiction and nonfiction--also enriches the text.
A resource for historians and other scholars in dress,
American and women's studies, and popular and material culture, The
Sunbonnet should also enjoy wide appeal among collectors, reenactors,
and anyone drawn to this American icon.
FROM THE ORAL HISTORIES
When I was born and raised, in the
country, we were outside a whole lot. And my mother had beautiful skin, and
she said, "You're going to ruin your skin. And you won't be able to go out
in the world from being out in the sunbeams too much." . . . They'd protect
you all right. But they were miserable! --Faye Rusk (1914-2004)
Rebecca Jumper Matheson has pursued her interest in
fashion/dress/costume in environments ranging from museums to the performing
arts. A former research assistant at the Costume Institute of the
Metropolitan Museum of Art, she was co-curator of the Museum at FIT
exhibition Designing the It Girl: Lucile and Her Style and is author of
"'A House That Is Made of Hats': The Lilly Dache Building, 1937-1968" in
The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007 (2008).
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