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Available November 2009
6 x 8, 240 pages.
24 b/w, 30 color photos
978-0-89672-665-9
$29.95 paper


Coming soon: online ordering! In the meantime, please call 800.832.4042 or 806.742.2982 to order.

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From fashion to field, its twentieth-century story

The Sunbonnet
An American Icon in Texas

Rebecca Jumper Matheson

How has something so ubiquitous been ignored for so long? Indeed, Matheson explains that to us, along with taking the garment apart, reassembling it, and even giving advice for reviving it. Her thorough treatment is a pleasure to read and fills in another missing piece in the puzzle that remains women's collective past.--Laurie Winn Carlson, author of Seduced by the West

Pervasive and fashionable throughout westward expansion in the United States, the sunbonnet endures as work dress in some regions and as icon just about everywhere--on quilts, dolls, and children's clothing. In 2003, Rebecca Matheson began to ask why.

Unlike the scant previously published work, this first book-length study focuses on the twentieth century and why this particular working-dress accessory persisted long after it passed out of nineteenth-century fashion. Surveying its previous history, Matheson pursues what the sunbonnet reveals about twentieth-century American fashion, culture, and ideals, as well as class- and race-related issues. Detailing materials and methods of sunbonnet construction and care, she also addresses differences in sunbonnet design.

Enlivening the study's fresh approach are oral histories and arresting primary source images, such as photographs by Dorothea Lange and sunbonnets from American collections private and public, including the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Texas Fashion Collection, and the Museum of Texas Tech University. Literary contextÑfiction and nonfiction--also enriches the text.

A resource for historians and other scholars in dress, American and women's studies, and popular and material culture, The Sunbonnet should also enjoy wide appeal among collectors, reenactors, and anyone drawn to this American icon.

FROM THE ORAL HISTORIES

When I was born and raised, in the country, we were outside a whole lot. And my mother had beautiful skin, and she said, "You're going to ruin your skin. And you won't be able to go out in the world from being out in the sunbeams too much." . . . They'd protect you all right. But they were miserable! --Faye Rusk (1914-2004)

Rebecca Jumper Matheson has pursued her interest in fashion/dress/costume in environments ranging from museums to the performing arts. A former research assistant at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, she was co-curator of the Museum at FIT exhibition Designing the It Girl: Lucile and Her Style and is author of "'A House That Is Made of Hats': The Lilly Dache Building, 1937-1968" in The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007 (2008).

 






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